Flow and Transport Due to Waves on a Beach
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Water waves approaching a beach undergo dramatic transformations, with the resulting flow dynamics being important for coastal transport of sediment and pollutants. We consider this situation using the non-linear shallow water equations, presenting both canonical and new solutions that are compared against data from large-scale laboratory experiments. Using the characteristic form of the equations, we show how breaking waves tend to create a uniform field of […]
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Details to come.